J.M. Cohen, Rare Books -- Jewelry August 2001, Part A: A-B

Catalogue 44

Aloi, Roberto. Esempi di Decorazione Moderna di Tutto il Mondo: Gioielli, Sbalzi, Argenti. Milan, 1954. lxxix pages of text with 75 illustrations plus 147 pages of photographic plates. Illustration listings in four languages, including English. Paperbound. $185.00
Modern jewelry and silver, with examples by Templier, Russel Wright, Puiforcat, Jensen and others.
Almanac: [Bernardin de Saint-Pierre, Jacques Henri]. Paul et Virginie, Comedie, en trois Actes, en prose melee d'Ariettes. Paris & Brussels, chez de la Haye, 1792. Engraved title page, 86 pages, (16) page Calendrier pour l'Annee... 1792. With four engraved plates of outdoor period scenes and showing period costumes. 16mo (2¼ x 3¾ inches), original patterned gilt decorated boards, all edges gilt. Covers rubbed, still very good. Scarce. $175.00
A comedy in three acts, illustrated, presented here in an almanac format, with calendar at the rear.
Arrhenius, Birgit. Merovingian Garnet Jewellery. Stockholm, (1985). 229 pages, black and white illustrations. Boards. Very good. $125.00
Baird, Henry Carey (publisher). The Turner's Companion: Containing Instructions in Concentric, Elliptic, and Eccentric Turning; Also Various Plates of Chucks, Tools, and Instruments; and Directions for Using the Eccentric Cutter, Drill, Vertical Cutter, and Circular Rest; With Patterns, and Instructions for Working Them. Philadelphia, Henry Carey Baird, 1866. 135 pages plus 24 pages of publisher's ads; 14 plates of tools, apparatus and patterns, two of which are folding plates. Large 12mo, original blind embossed cloth. Head of spine frayed, lacking blank second front flyleaf, some minor foxing. Still, overall a very good copy. $135.00
First published in 1851, this work was quite popular as it went through many editions. It deals with concentric, elliptic and eccentric turning, with a history of the lathe and attractive plates showing a variety of patterns as well as plates showing apparatus.
Bayard, Emile. L'Art de Reconnaitre les Bijoux Anciens: Pierres Precieuses, Metal Precieux. Paris, Ernest Grund, 1924. First edition. 313 pages, contents leaf; includes terminology and plate descriptions; 78 numbered black and white plates plus text illustrations. Small 8vo, original blue and white wrappers; wrapper edges and backstrip chipped, internally and overall very good; largely uncut and unopened. $185.00
One of the scarcest books in the series "Guides Pratiques de l'Amateur et du Collectionneur d'Art;" discusses antique jewelry, with examples from the collection of Georges Chapsal.

Original Bauhaus Textile Design

Bauhaus Textile Design by Lena Bergner. An original color drawing of a textile design by Lena Bergner. It is not signed, but provenance information verifies it to be by Lena Bergner. It measures 20 x 7 7/8 with the actual painting 16½ x 5½ inches. It is painted against a sort of pencilled grid in a variety of dark red/maroons, aqua/turquoises, orange/browns, and yellow. The design is geometric. On the back, handwritten in red pencil is the date of June 22, 1937 and also written is '8 Variante'. $2,500.00

Bauhaus Textile Design

Becker: Becker, Friedrich. Friedrich Becker: Jewellery, Kinetics, Objects. Edited by Hildegard Becker. Stuttgart, (1997). Text in German and English.
$110.00
Study of this world reknown goldsmith and jewelry designer (1922-1997) who was the creator of kinetic jewelry.
Bradford, E.D.S. Contemporary Jewellery and Silver Design. London, Heywood & Company, (1950). First edition. 134 pages, profusely illustrated with photographs, including several color plates; index. 4to, cloth, very good. Scarce. Not in Sinkankas. $200.00
Shows fine examples of late 1940s through 1950 jewelry.
Brussels, Hotel Solvay. Le Bijou 1900: Modern Style-Juwelen. Brussels, (1965). 102 pages, text in French and Flemish; 35 black and white and 23 color illustrations. Presented by artist, with a biography of each: Fouquet, Wolfers, Lalique, Joseph Hoffmann, Van De Velde, Vever, Wiener Werkstatte and others. 8vo, illustrated wrappers (slightly stained), overall very good. $185.00

Canadian Art Deco Jewelry & Silver
Canadian Jewelry: Master Catalogue of the Canadian Jewellery Trade 1930-31. Toronto, Ross, Barbour, Molhall Ltd., (1930). Foreword in English and French. 176 pages, almost totally illustrated with examples of jewelry, jewelry for men, watches, clocks, silverware, toilet ware, leather goods and other objects. Most of the items are manufactured by Canadian companies, all are noted. Included are a number of exquisite full color plates, some displaying exceptional examples of art deco lighters, perfume atomizers and jewelry, all in the style of the period, all priced. Large 4to, original limp gilt and embossed leather-like boards; chipped at extremities; five very tiny cuts from illustrations, else very good. Scarce. $275.00
Cera, Deanna Farneti. Jewels of Fantasy: Costume Jewelry of the 20th Century. New York, (1992). $350.00
Chaumet: Musee Carnavalet, Paris. Chaumet, Paris, Deux Siecles de Creation. Paris, (1998). Published on the occasion of the exhibition 25 March - 28 June 1998. Texts by Roselyne Hurel and Diana Scarisbrick. $125.00
Two centuries of fine jewelry from Chaumet.
Chin, Edmond. Gilding the Phoenix: The Straits Chinese and Their Jewellery. Singapore, 1991. $175.00
Christie's, New York. American Chic: 100 Years of Jewelry Design. Cata-logue of an auction 18 October 1999. New York, 1999. 172 page catalogue of 200 items, profusely illustrated in color, biographies; a few prices realized handwritten. Paperbound. $50.00
Includes works by Daniel Brush, Cartier, Paul Flato, Heyman & Bros., Marcus & Co., Ostier, Seaman Schepps, Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co., Trabert & Hoeffer, Van Cleef, David Webb, Raymond Yard and others.
Christie's, New York. Magnificent Jewels and Property from the Collection of Mrs. Sybil Harrington 19 October 1999. New York, 1999. A two-volume set of 847 lots (lots 795-847 are in the second part); profusely illustrated in color, biographies. Paperbound. $50.00
Includes works by Boivin, Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, Herz-Belperron, Lalique, Marcus & Co., Schlumberger, Sterle, Tiffany, Van Cleef, David Webb, Harry Winston, Raymond Yard and others.
Cologne. Kunstgewerbemuseum der Stadt. Schmuck I: Hals-, Ohr-, Arm- und Gewandschmuck. Schmuck II: Fingerringe. Two volumes. By Anna Beatriz Chadour and Rudiger Joppien. 1985. Catalogue of the collection of jewelry in the Kunstgewerbemuseum in Cologne. Volume I devoted to necklaces, earrings, bracelets and pendants; Volume II to rings. Paperbound. $350.00
An exhaustive catalogue of a magnificent collection.
[Conkling, Margaret C. (Margaret Cockburn), 1814-1890]. The American Gentleman's Guide to Politeness and Fashion.... [by] Henry Lunettes. New York, Derby & Jackson, 1860. New edition, revised by the author. 480 pages. Large 12mo, original blind embossed cloth, extremities worn, covers faded, head of spine torn, still an overall very good copy. $150.00
Written as letters to the author's nephews and originally published in 1857, this work begins with a discussion of dress, including information on the wearing and care of gloves, cravats, hair, use of diamonds in dress, hats, details of morning and evening dress, wedding attire; continues with discussions of manners, etiquette, the toilet, habit, moral education and more.
Costume – Military: Great Britain. War Office. Dress Regulations for the Officers of the Army. (Including the Militia). [Government document 61002/6972; 38407/Dress/141]. London, HMSO, 1900. First edition. vii, 118 pages of General Instructions (descriptions, pattern numbers and corresponding plate numbers), the different ranks and staff, badges and how and where worn; care and preservation of uniforms, description of saddlery, swords, scabbards, belts (with pattern diagrams); index. Plus 79 black and white, mostly photographic plates. 4to, blind embossed cloth, spine and edges faded, else very good. Scarce. Hiler, pages 248 & 392. $225.00
Crane, Walter. A 2¼ inch announcement for Crane's series of designs for the Scottish Widows' Fund, with illustration of one example printed in blue. N.p., n.d. $35.00
Cunnington, C. Willett & Phillis. The History of Underclothes. London, Joseph, (1951). First edition. 266 pages, 119 illustrations. 8vo, cloth, very good in slightly chipped dust jacket. $75.00
Dali: Dali, Salvador. Dali: A Study of His Art-in-Jewels. The Collection of the Owen Cheatham Foundation. Foreword by A. Hyatt Mayor. Comments and Captions by the Artist.... New York, (1959). First edition. $135.00
With black and white portrait and 28 tipped-in color photographs of Dali's jewelry. A fine copy in the original pictorial slipcase.
Danzker, Jo-Anne Birnie. Art Nouveau Buckles 1896-1910: The Kreuzer Collection. Stuttgart, 2001. 232 pages, 250 color illustrations, 35 marks. Boards, dust jacket. $75.00
Published by the Museum Villa Stuck, Munich on the occasion of the exhibition at the Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim 9 September – 19 November 2000 and other locations.
Di Natale, Maria Concetta. Gioielli di Sicilia. Palermo, 2000. 285 pages, color illustrations. Boards, dust jacket. Fine. $200.00

Dog Collars

Dog Collars: Foin, G., Paris. Manufacture de Colliers et Laisses pour Chiens. Dog's Collars and Leashes Manufacture [Title page with title in five languages]. Paris, Printed by L. Ullmann, n.d. (ca. 1910s-20s). A trade catalogue of dog collars and leashes comprised of an illustrated title page plus 29 color plates, versos blank, not only of collars and leashes, but of dog coats, muzzles, bells and whistles, and some sensational studded collars resembling choice examples of bracelets and necklaces. Oblong folio, original wrappers with ties, fine. Rare. $1,250.00
An unusual subject, an unusual catalogue, but how it relates to design can not be overlooked. Magnificent!
Drutt, Helen W. & Peter Dormer. Jewelry of Our Time: Art, Ornament and Obsession. New York, (1995). 352 pages, 586 illustrations, 458 in color. Clothbound in dust jacket. $55.00
Duchess of Windsor: Sotheby's, Geneva. The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor. The sale catalogue, April 2-3, 1987, offering 306 items, fully illustrated in color. Clothbound, dust jacket. With prices realized. $150.00
Duffey, Mrs. E[liza] B[isbee]. The Ladies' and Gentlemen's Etiquette: A Complete Manual of the Manners and Dress of American Society. Containing Forms of Letters, Invitations, Acceptances and Regrets. With a Copious Index. Philadelphia, Henry T. Coates & Co., n.d. (c1877). Illustrated frontispiece, 352 pages. 8vo, original black and green decorative cloth, very good. $125.00
An American etiquette book in which is included a full section on dress that deals with the toilette, morning dress, riding, driving and visiting dress, bathing costumes, costumes for public places, costumes for traveling, wedding and mourning outfits and toilette recipes. The Library of Congress cites Porter and Coates, [c1877] as publishing information; this copy with a variant publisher, but also with copyright date as only date reference and copyright held by Henry B. Ashmead. Mrs. Duffey also wrote "The Relation of the Sexes" and "What Women Should Know." Not in Hiler.
Faberge: Habsburg, Geza von. Faberge in America. New York, 1996. Clothbound. $50.00
Published for the exhibition organized by the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, opening at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, February 16, 1996.

Mediaeval Jewelry

Falke, Otto von. Der Mainzer Goldschmuck der Kaiserin Gisela. Berlin, 1913. 31 pages, 26 black and white illustrations plus 8 plates (including chromolithographed tipped-in frontispiece). Small folio, original cloth gilt, top edge gilt, very good. Edition limited to 1100 copies. $300.00
A beautifully produced work on this major collection of medieval jewelry, with chromolithographed frontispiece.
Fashion: The American Ladies' Tailor. Fashionable Woman's Tailor and L'Elegance Parisienne. New York, Mitchell Fashion Co., Inc., Newman-King Fashion Co. and Paris-New York Fashion Co., February 1925. Volume XXIII, no. 1. 32 pages, profusely illustrated with black and white drawings of contemporary women's fashions. Folio, original wrappers, contents loosening from staples, very good. $275.00
A lovely art deco era issue of this long running periodical.

With Hand-colored Overlay Plates

Fashion: The Art of Dress; Or, Guide to the Toilette: With Directions for Adapting the Various Parts of the Female Costume to the Complexion and Figure; Hints on Cosmetics, &c. Embellished with Engravings from Designs by Frank Howard, Esq. London, Tilt, 1839. x, 68 pages, (2) pages of ads plus six hand-colored plates, one an overlay with cut out of woman's head with bust-length view of two dresses. 16mo, original cloth with gilt decoration and title, all edges gilt; expertly rebacked to match; fine. Scarce. Hiler, page 47. Colas 166. Lipperheide 3263. $650.00
Fashion: Butterick (E.) & Co., London and New York. Metropolitan Fashions. Volume V, nos. 1-5 For Spring and Summer, 1877 (dated Spring and Summer, March, April, May, June 1877). London & New York, Butterick, 1877. 74 pages, totally illustrated with hundreds of examples of Butterick styles for women and children, and some men's clothing. As so many styles are displayed, this item presents an exceptional example of exactly what people were wearing in 1877. Large folio (15¼ x 19¾ inches). Original self wrappers bound into contemporary quarter cloth on marbled boards now detached, but present. Internally very good with minor edges wear and soiling. Scarce. Not in Romaine, nor in Hiler. $450.00
More a trade catalogue than an actual periodical, published by Butterick to show what patterns could be purchased and with the sizes and prices noted.
Fashion: Comfort A. R. Co., Waterloo, NY. Strictly Tailored Garments for the Entire Family, made from the Best Fabrics and Guaranteed to Outwear others in their Price Class. Waterloo, (1925). Printed title page, nine photographic plates. Loosely inserted are two price lists for January 1925. They are both basically the same and correspond to the plates illustrated, but they also contain prices for items not illustrated. They are each one sheet folded. The difference between the two is that the cover of one states the company as The Comfort A. R. Co. and the other cites it as Comfort Auto Robe Co. The plates show sweaters, suits, knickers and knicker suits for both boys and girls as well as skirts for girls and a few men's sweaters. 4½ x 9 inches, wrappers, bound by fasteners, very good. Scarce. $125.00
It is uncommon to see examples of knickers and knicker suits for girls in trade catalogues of the period.
Fashion: The Lady's Magazine, or Mirror of the Belles Lettres, Fashions, Fine Arts, Music, Drama, &c. London, S. Robinson, 1829. New Series, Volume 10. The complete year: 672 pages including index and list of plates; 35 hand-colored engraved fashion plates of English and French women's dresses plus 12 black and white engraved plates. 8vo size in quarto, bound in half calf on marbled boards with gilt spine; all edges marbled. Slightly rubbed, very good. Colas 1711-1713. Hiler, page 520. Holland, Hand Coloured Fashion Plates, pages 48, 69-70. $750.00
The Lady's Magazine was the first magazine to issue fashion plates with any regularity. It began in 1770. Early volumes were not issued colored, but were often colored by hand by dressmakers and the like. By 1790 Lady's Magazine was issuing the plates hand colored. The magazine survived, in various forms and under different ownerships until about 1837. During the 1830s Lady's Magazine began importing plates from Le Follet, a Parisian magazine. It was the first English magazine to do so and became an improvement on what was being produced in England at the time. By the 1840s many English magazines used French plates. In this 1829 issue, there appear to be both English and French costume plates. This copy contains the complete texts from the 12 issues of the year 1829 and each discusses current fashions, current French fashions, poetry, prose, travel articles, cookery, fine art exhibitions, births, marriages and deaths. Collation is difficult, but the complete volume should contain 35 plates and this copy does. However, checking monthly issues, four plates seem to be missing, but there are four additional plates. They are quite possibly mismarked and therefore, exactly what should be contained in this volume.
Fashion: The Lady's Magazine, or Entertaining Companion for the Fair Sex. Appropriated solely to their Use and Amusement. London, G. Robinson, 1809. Volume XL. The complete year, January - December plus Supplement: 620 pages plus (4) page index; 12 hand-colored engraved fashion plates of English women's dresses, 12 embroidery patterns (many folding) and additional black and white engraved plates. 8vo size in quarto, bound in half calf on marbled boards with gilt spine. Slightly rubbed, very good. Colas 1711-1713. Hiler, page 520. Holland, Hand Coloured Fashion Plates, pages 48, 69-70. $750.00
The Lady's Magazine was the first magazine to issue fashion plates with any regularity. It began in 1770. Early volumes were not issued colored, but were often colored by hand by dressmakers and the like. By 1790 Lady's Magazine was issuing the plates hand colored. The magazine survived, in various forms and under different ownerships until about 1837. During the 1830s Lady's Magazine began importing plates from Le Follet, a Parisian magazine. It was the first English magazine to do so and became an improvement on what was being produced in England at the time. By the 1840s many English magazines used French plates. In this 1809 issue, there are only English fashion plates, but this volume also has the embroidery design patterns. The texts of each issue presents literature, poetry, home news, foreign news, marriages, deaths, current fashions, and more. Complete.
Fashion: The Ladies' Cabinet of Fashion, Music & Romance. Volume VIII. Edited by Margaret and Beatrice De Courcy. London, G. Henderson, July - December 1835. vi, 438 pages; 7 engraved plates and engraved title page vignette, 26 hand colored fashion plates. 12mo, contemporary green cloth, very good. Holland, pages 69, 81 & 162. $175.00
Volume VIII, nos. 1-6 (1835), complete volume. This magazine ran from 1832 to 1870. Vyvyan Holland, in Hand Coloured Fashion Plates states that this is one of the two most important English magazines to begin during this period and that it copied French plates, as did many of the magazines of the time. She says that the plates are small and badly drawn and coloured. They are simply drawn and colored appropriately and what Holland doesn't say is that the descriptions of the plates are filled with information regarding the specifics of the dress, the ornamentation, the hair and the accessories.
Fashion: Les Modeles Parisiens. Les Liasses de la Mode. Paris, 1931. A Fashion File (Les Liasses de la Mode) imprinted on cover with title and price of the file and containing title page plus 58 plates from the fashion magazine Tres Parisien, all of which are from various issues of 1931. As with the original publication, these are all pochoir plates on tissue paper, affixed to a thicker stock; some of those sheets are imprinted on the back with advertising for perfume (and one for Twining Tea). 7 1/8 x 10 5/8 inches; original wrappers slightly stained and torn at spine (which is on top); internally the plates are all fine except that the volume is held together by two staples and there is some staining where the staples have rusted (at the very top of the plate). $300.00
Fashion: [Morning and Evening Costumes, 1830s-1840s]. N.d. (1830s-1840s). A collection of 65 hand colored engraved fashion plates, with captions, from an unknown source, attractively found in a 19th century blue morocco binding by Bartlett & Co., Boston with gilt tooled spine, gilt border designs and gilt inner dentelles; top edge gilt. Several illustrations are signed in the plate W. Busell or W. Panormo. The plates are probably taken from one of the many periodicals of the period, probably English, and bound by a collector during the latter part of the nineteenth century. $650.00
Fashion: Paris Album of Fashions (Formerly: Album des Modes); A Monthly Journal of New and Artistic Styles for Ladies and Dressmakers. Volume IV, no. 4. An American edition of French Fashions, published monthly. New York, A. McDowell & Co., April, 1893. Complete issue with 16 pages plus 8 pages of ads; illustrated in black and white in the text and with 5 full-page hand colored lithographs of women's fashions (one with children as well), including one double-page plate. Folio, color lithographed fully illustrated cover. Extremities chipped and slightly spotted; plates fine. $275.00
Fashion: Rodasi Company, Cincinnati. Mary Rose Frocks, Interpreted by Rodasi Company, Actual Manufacturers of Mary Rose Frocks, Roda Shirts, Cincinnati, New York, Paris... . A presentation by Mary Rose, arresting styles endorsed by Rodasi company... appareling manufacturers of note... Fall and Winter Fashions 1929. Cincinnati, 1929. (50) page trade catalogue of women's clothing styles for the 1929 season. Most pages with two fashions illustrated in color, with description and price and most with small fabric swatches affixed to show available fabrics in each style. The hosiery section contains a tipped-in plate with raised, patterned painted samples of the colors available. With seven pages devoted to lingerie with color tinted photographs and fabric swatches, all in pink. Two pages show men's underwear and shirts, with swatches. A pocket on the rear inside cover contains a duplicated letter/Mary Rose Bulletin No. 305 September 25, 1929 and a flyer on washing instructions for hosiery. Large 4to, original printed boards bound by bolts. Front board stained at top and minor rubbing to first page. Some swatches are missing. Generally very good. Scarce. $375.00
Fashion - Furs: Brunswick, Paris. Fourrures Brunswick: Le Fourreur qui fait fureur. Paris, Brunswick, n.d. (1952). (2) pages plus (30) pages of black and white photographs of the highest styles of Paris fashions in women's furs for the early 1950s. Loosely inserted are: an order form with measuring instructions; a four-page price list (folded) dated 15 November 1952; a four-page catalogue of children's furs (illustrated with line drawings), priced; and a credit application. Tall 8vo, red leather with attractive gilt and black geometric designs on front cover. Corners bumped, slightly rubbed at spine ends and corners, very good. Scarce. $125.00

With Original Photos

Fashion - Furs: Jungmann & Cie, Paris. Les Fourrures en 1922. Paris, 1922. Paper folder with title and company name in black and red containing ten original photographs, one per page, each affixed to an indented centered area on the page with printed red border and title and the Jungmann embossed stamp on the lower margin. Each photograph shows a most stylish woman wearing one of Jungmann's latest designs in fur coats, with wonderful hats and shoes fully displayed. A lovely and uncommon presentation in the original black and red printed grey and beige flexible boards. 8vo. The plates and paper folder are in fine condition; the outer cardboard folder is slightly torn along the spine and dusty. Scarce. $350.00

Bathing Suits

Bathing Suits

Fashion - Bathing Suits: Milbury Atlantic Supply Co., New York. Bathing Suits. New York, n.d. (ca. 1890). 36 pages, black and white illustrations, both cuts and photo reproductions, of men's and women's bathing suits, as well as bathing shoes, bathing caps, sweaters, golf and bicycle hose, belts, shirts, men's hosiery, mackintosh coats, women's coats, rubber coats, and oiled clothing. 12mo, pictorial wrappers, staple bound, tiny punch hole through the catalogue at the top, only affecting the address on each page, else very good. Scarce. Romaine page 112 cites an 1895 Milbury bathing suit catalogue and on page 347, under Sporting Goods, cites another catalogue, c. 1890, entitled Illustrated catalogue of bathing suits and other sportswear, without any distinguishing information. Both are listed as being from the Chicago Historical Society. The catalogue we offer here could be the same as the Romaine catalogue on page 347, but we believe it to probably be yet another similar catalogue of the same company. $125.00
Fashion - Furs: Revillon Freres, Paris. Revillon Freres, Fourrures & Confections... . Paris, 1931-1932. A 32-page totally illustrated trade catalogue of fur coats and wraps, mostly for women, but with two pages of styles for men. With a 16-page staple bound price-list for 1931-1932 loosely inserted. The fashions shown are in the highest style of the period. Small 8vo, wrappers with Revillon Freres insignia on front, slightly dusty, else very good. Scarce. $125.00

Men's Tailoring Salesman's Sample Case

Fashion – Men's Tailoring: Pioneer Tailoring Co., Chicago. Men's Tailoring Salesman's Sample Case. Chicago, 1931. Suitcase measuring 15 x 11½ x 6 inches, in fine condition with closures and leather handle, almost totally in tact and containing two compartments, one with five cards of fabric samples on which are fastened 26 ca. 9 x 5 inch samples of heavy wool for overcoats; the other with 13 cards of samples on which are fastened 103 samples of light wool for suits in a variety of dark suit colors and patterns. A third compartment on the top part of the case is an expanding file folder with a turquoise, red and brown printed and illustrated advertisment, 14 x 5½ inches, of what is offered by the company. The file appears to contain all that the salesman would have carried, as there is no room for additional information. Contained therein are:

1) "The Style Guide to Correct Attire for Men & Young Men, Autumn 1931 - Winter 1932 - Pioneer Tailoring Co.;" a trade catalogue, 20 pages, printed in red & black with wonderful mostly full page period illustrations of men in Pioneer suits and coats, each illustration with scenic backgrounds, including women, cars, planes; golf suits, tuxedos and raincoats are also shown.

2) "Better Made Raincoats," a brochure, one sheet of card, folded, priced, with ten 3 x 1¾4 inch samples.

3) Advertising card for Celanese Lining, one sheet, with illustration and sample.

4) Advertising card for Snugtex, one sheet, with illustration and sample.

5) "Other People's Letters," a 2 7/8 x 5 1/2 inch brochure, one sheet folded three times (5 copies).

6) Another advertising announcement in the form of a calling card, folded twice to 2 3/8 x 4 inches (9 copies).

7) Measuring tape on company T-shaped form, in perfect condition.

8) Order blanks for Raincoat Orders, bound in a 9 1/8 x 5 1/2 inch booklet, wrappers with cloth backstrip, unused, with the original carbon paper.

9) Six 4x9 inch preprinted envelopes and six 3½ x 6 inch preprinted envelopes (some uneven fading).

10) Receipt book for deposits, 9 x 4 inches, wrappers with cloth backstrip, unused, with original carbon paper (one blank sheet torn).

11) A 20-page pamphlet, "Planned Selling - Information, Data, Plans, Instructions and Ideas for The Pioneer District Salesman," 4½ x 8½ inches, staple bound.

12) Pad of "Inter-Organization Correspondence" stationery, 8½ x 5½ inches.

13) Order book, 9 x 11½ inches, wrappers with cloth backstrip, each sheet printed in green with illustrations and spaces to fill in all measurement requirements; in tact, with carbon paper.

14) Price and deposit information for the salesman, dated Fall and Winter 1931, one sheet folded, 3¾ x 7½ inches.

15) Two copies of a bonus flyer for the salesman, each one sheet folded, "50 Dollars for 50 Suits... ," 5½ x 8½ inches.

16) Advertising brochure, one sheet of card, folded, 8½ x 11, missing the sample (seems to be the only item missing from this case).

Other than the leather handle being a bit worn, it certainly seems like this salesman's case was never used or the salesman was not very successful! Rare, especially this complete. $950.00

Fashion Overlays:
Manuscript of Original Watercolors

Fashion Overlays: Original Watercolors of Fashion Overlays. British, ca. 1825. An 8 x 9¾ inch sewn album of original watercolor paintings, full-size of women's costumes. Each with the head or head and bust cut out. There are 8 watercolors, including one quaker costume. Also included is the head and bust of a young woman in a 5¼ x 5½ format with red paper border and red paper covered hand grip for inserting behind the watercolors to show how this one young woman would look in the different fashions. With no wrappers or binding, but with the original red paper bordered cover label hand titled "Costumes." Housed in an appropriate, but modern marbled paper board folder, in a clamshell box. In fine condition. $8,500.00

Fashion Overlays

Feasey, Peggy. Rubies & Roses: Gems Portrayed in Flowers. Rutland, (1970). $60.00
The influence of flowers and plant forms as a decorative motif in jewelry design; floral designs inspired by gems.
Fisch: McFadden, David. Elegant Fantasy: The Jewelry of Arlene Fisch. Stuttgart, 2000. 144 pages, 106 color and 12 black and white illustrations. Boards, dust jacket. $60.00

Art Nouveau Jewelry Designs

Follot, Paul. Documents de Bijouterie et Orfevrerie modernes. Paris, Henri Laurens, n.d. (1900). (4) pages plus 24 plates (12 color). The jewelry is in color; the silver is not. In original folio portfolio reinforced around edges and spine. Very good. $1,500.00
Art Nouveau jewelry designs by this French decorative artist and sculptor who studied with Eugene Grasset. Follot was best known as a designer for La Maison Moderne, the Paris gallery. See Becker, Art Nouveau Jewelry, page 219 and Strydonck de Burkel, Le Bijou Art Nouveau en Europe, page 104.
Frank, Robin Jaffee. Love & Loss: American Portrait Miniatures from the Yale University Art Gallery. Catalogue of an exhibition April 28 – July 31, 2001. 352 pages, 50 black and white and 150 color illustrations. Clothbound. $35.00
Friling, Hermann. Malereien. Berlin, B. Hessling, n.d. (ca. 1898). Four pages of text and description of plates plus 10 numbered plates (nine of which are chromolithographs). Large folio, cardboard portfolio (worn); plates in fine condition. Rare. Not in the Berlin Catalogue. $500.00
A lovely Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) pattern book of ornamental ideas for wall decoration. Friling produced a number of works of design ideas for decorators and architects from about 1898-1900, but this is the only one solely devoted to Jugendstil wall decoration, using standard period ideas of plant and animal motifs. Complete with text and plates, but housed in a portfolio from another of Friling's works entitled "Moderne Flachornamente."

Iron and Brass Beds

Furniture - Beds: Torres (Juan), Barcelona. Catalogo No. 12. Barcelona, Juan Torres, n.d. (ca. 1900). Trade catalogue of iron and brass beds from Barcelona. Each page printed in luxurious chromolithography, heightened in gold, the beds set against a pastel green and pink floral decorative motif. Full-page index plus 110 pages of illustrations (pages 1-106, with 18A&B and 54A&B). Title page with company stamp. Last two pages of mattresses and box springs. Complete. Large 4to, gilt embossed cloth with original tie. Covers very slightly faded, else very good and internally fine. Scarce. $850.00
Gordon, Angie. Twentieth Century Costume Jewellery. New York & London, (1990). Profusely illustrated in color. Signed by the author. $125.00
Xerox of 1998 value guide inserted.
Gregorietti, Guido. Jewelry: History & Technique from the Egyptians to the Present. Secaucus, (1979). Boards, dust jacket. $60.00
Haedeke, Hanns-Ulrich. Schmuck aus Drei Jahrtausenden. Sammlung Hanns-Ulrich Haedeke. Cologne, 2000. 332 pages, 394 items, all illustrated in color. Clothbound, dust jacket. $125.00

Lessons in Hairdressing

Hairdressing: Creer, Edwin. Lessons in Hairdressing. A Vade Mecum Specially Designed for the Use of Hairdressers; To Which is Added a Glossary, containing nearly seven hundred French words and phrases used in the business. London, R. Hovenden & Sons, 1877. viii, 97 pages, (6) pages of ads; with numerous illustrations. Small 8vo (4 x 6½ inches), original gilt lettered and blind embossed green cloth. Extremities rubbed, very good. Scarce. Cox, page xiv. Hiler, page 202. $300.00
Creer was the editor of "The Hairdressers' Chronicle" and author of "A Popular Treatise on the Human Hair," among other similar titles. Perhaps his most popular work was "Board-Work; or the Art of Wig-making (1887)" The publishers were Hair Merchants and Manufacturers, Wholesale Perfumers, etc. The ads of Hovenden and other hair merchants are in the rear. In addition, there is an ad for Edwin Creer, "Artist in Hair - Established 1846" as a manufacturer of "all kinds of Hair Jewellery... [and] Device-work... "

Rare Work on The Toilette

The Hand-Book of the Toilette. By the author of "Familiar Hints on Sea-Bathing," The Hand-Book of Cookery, &c. London, W.S. Orr and Co, 1841. Second edition. xii, 172 pages, including appendix containing instructions for preparing baths, cosmetics, hair-dyes, dentifrices, pomatums, and perfumes. 12mo, original green cloth covered limp boards with title and price in gilt on upper cover, head of spine slightly torn, else very good. Rare. Unrecorded in the British Library Catalogue, the Library of Congress Online Catalogue, major university library online catalogues; not in any of the standard bibliographies. $350.00
Discusses ablution, the hair, the teeth, the skin and face, the breath, shaving, the hands, the feet, clothing, flannel, drawers, boots and shoes, and perfumery for both men and women, specifically English men and women.
Hase-Schmundt, Ulrike von. Jugendstil Schmuck: Die Europaischen Zentren von 1895 bis 1915. Munich, 1998. Boards. $150.00

Shape Book on Hats

Hats: Bluxome & Co., New York. Trade Catalogue of Hats. Spring & Summer 1883. New York, 1883. 24 pages of womens' hats. A shape book, partially resembling a shell, with chromolithographed covers showing a bunny (for Spring) and a flower and seashell (for Summer) with a man and a little girl (with a Bluxome hat on, no doubt) surrounded by flowers and the inside of the seashell. Fine. $185.00
An unusual and attractive catalogue showing a wide range of hats of the period.
Hats: Chaumonot & Cie., Paris. Chapeaux de Paille et Feutre. Ete 1912. Paris, Chaumonot & Cie, 1912. Oblong 8vo blank embossed and printed wrappers, staple bound, with information on cover and containing 19 numbered pages of photomechanical illustrations of hats, each presented in a bust-length view on a mannequin; the mannequins look like hand painted bisque dolls. Very good. Scarce. $225.00
The Summer 1912 Chaumonot & Co. trade catalogue of 120 straw and felt hats.

Chaumonot

Hats: Hume, Alexander. Report Upon the Petitions Relating to the Manufacture of Hats. Reported by Alexander Hume, Esq.; 11th February 1752. [HMSO, Reports from Committee of the House, Miscellaneous Reports, Volume II, 1803; London]. London, 1803. Title page plus five pages. Folio, bound into cloth with gilt-imprinted morocco spine label, fine. Rare. $225.00
Documentation of a committee of hat manufacturers in Great Britain presented to the House regarding the state of the hat manufacturing industry in Great Britain. The report deals specifically with Beaver hats and focuses on the exportation of said hats. The danger of losing their export trade was the concern of all of the hatters involved in writing the report.
Hats: Jacobson (N.), Ltd., Clarence Hat Works, Cheetham, and Imperial Helmet Works, Strangeways, Manchester. [Trade catalogue of hats, caps and helmets]. Manchester, (ca. 1917). Eight sheets, printed on both sides with illustrations of civilian and military hats, helmets and caps, mostly for men, but several for women; with loose photo illustration of N. Jacobson and imprinted "With N Jacobson's Compliments." Also with eight loose smaller sheets of updated prices as of April 2nd, 1917 "owing to the great increase in the cost of all Raw Materials... " Large 4to, original pictorial wrappers, staple bound with with cord tie closure. Edges chipped, otherwise very good. Scarce. $275.00
British World War I military hats and sun helmets, as well as hats and caps of all varieties.
Headdress: Wildenstein, New York. A Loan Exhibition: Fashion in Headdress 1450-1943, For the Benefit of New York Infirmary for Women and Children. April 27 - May 27, 1943. New York, 1943. 24 pages, richly illustrated with portraits, showing the historical development in hairstyles and hats. 8vo, wrappers, very good. $45.00
Higgin, L. Handbook of Embroidery. Edited by Lady Marian Alford. London, Sampson Low, Marston, Searle, and Rivington; Printed at the Chiswick Press, 1880. First edition. xii, 106 pages, 20 text illustrations and 22 designs on 16 plates, including 8 in color. Small 8vo, original decorative boards, all edges gilt. Covers worn at edges and along spine, as usual, hinges weak, but still a very good overall copy. Scarce. Hiler, page 143. Lipperheide 4000. Franklin 7214. $350.00
"A reaction by [William] Morris... led to embroidery of a different kind being created... referred to as 'Art Needlework', this included all surface techniques but instead of counting threads embroideresses translated their designs... in a much freer way.... " [Parry: "Textiles of the Arts and Crafts Movement"]. With designs by Walter Crane, E. Burne-Jones, William Morris, Miss Jekyll and others, as well as details of the Royal School of Art-Needlework with a catalogue of their works (with prices), this volume details how the art of needlework was taught during the Arts and Crafts Movement in England. Lady Alford, author of "Needlework as Art" (1886) and Vice-President of the school, founded in 1872, has edited this work. The Royal School of Art-Needlework was the "most important early institution for the training of ladies in professional secular embroidery." [Callen: "Women Artists of the Arts & Crafts Movement."] The women in the school produced their own designs, but also embroidered designs by the great artists of the time, William Morris, Walter Crane and others. This volume shows designs these artists created for the Royal School, designs which are typical of the Arts & Crafts Movement. William Morris' contribution is mentioned in the Victoria & Albert Museum Catalogue "William Morris, page 241 citing an embroidery design (M.16 in the catalogue), which is "part of a small series of designs made for the Royal School of Art Needlework soon after it was founded in 1872. Morris was probably introduced to the school through his sister-in-law Bessie Burden, who taught there in the 1870s and organized its highly influential stand at the Philadelphia Centennial Exhibition of 1876... a fuller repeating version of this described as 'Design for a Sofa-Back Chair' is illustrated in a publication devoted to the school's work, 'Handbook of Embroidery'.... "

French Ironwork Trade Catalogue

Ironwork: Ducel (J.J.) Fils, Maitre de Forges a Paris. Trade Catalogue of Ironwork Designs. (Paris), J.J. Ducel, n.d. (ca. 1850s-1860s). Volume containing 130 lithographed plates of ironwork designs, through numbered 1-130, complete. The plates show hundreds of examples of the ironwork that Ducel Fils produced, including railings, balconies, door ornaments, candelabra, garden ornament, door panels, religious ornaments, funerary ornaments, coal fireplaces, benches, statues, fountains, and more, each with pattern number and dimensions. 4to, plain beige-brown cloth binding with front pastedown imprinted with the paper and notebook manufacturers, Papeterie Jules Bouillotte, winners of an honorable mention at the 1849 Exposition Nationale de l'Industrie. Some minor foxing and cloth worn at spine ends and corners, still a very good condition. Scarce. $850.00
While little seems to be known of the firm of J.J. Ducel Fils, it is known that they were a major Parisian company that showed regularly at the international exhibitions. It is recorded that they exhibited some 300 of their candelabra which had been quickly changed from gas to electric at the 1878 Paris World Exhibition, the first exhibition to show the electric light.

Ironwork

Japanese Design: Hyakusenkai Hyojunzu Anshu [Collection of Designs of Hyakusenkai]. N.p., 1925. Two plates of Japanese text plus 54 plates of illustrations, 10 in color. 8vo, silk over boards with title strip on cover, bound at top with ties. Covers stained, internally very good. Rare. $350.00
Contemporary designs from Hyakusenkai. These are Japanese designs, most likely for textiles, with a very art deco flavor.

Japanese Textile Designs

Japanese Textile Designs: A volume containing 54 double-leaved pages displaying hand-colored woodblock print designs for textiles, 20 of which are in color, 30 of which are in black and white and with four pages of text.n.d. (ca. 1890-1900). 8vo, original wrappers with tie, edges slightly rubbed, very good. $375.00
Jewelry Trade Catalogue: A.E. Frank & Son, Jewelers and Opticians, Trumbauersville, Pa. A Little Catalog of Rings and Jewelry 1914-1915. Trumbauersville, Pa, (1914). 16 pages, of which two are text and 14 are illustrations, 6 color. The color plates are all rings; the others are pendants, bracelets, cufflinks, chains and watches. The inside rear cover is a birthstone card with colors and locations where the stones were found. 4¼ x 8¼ inches, decoratively printed wrappers scuffed and a bit stained, edges chipped, but internally and overall a good copy of a scarce catalogue. $50.00
Johns, Catherine. The Jewellery of Roman Britain: Celtic and Classical Traditions. London, (1996). Black and white illustrations; bibliography and index. $75.00
An important study, considered the definitive work on the subject.
Jorgensen, Lars & Peter Vang Petersen. Gold, Power and Belief/ Guld, Magt og Tro: Danish Gold Treasures from Prehistory and the Middle Ages. Denmark, 1998. 346 pages, 28 black and white and 182 color illustrations. Boards. $85.00
The National Museum's collection of approximately 250 gold objects from prehistoric and medieval Denmark.

"The Art That is Life"

Kaplan, Wendy. "The Art That is Life": The Arts & Crafts Movement in America, 1875-1920. Boston, Museum of Fine Arts, (1987). 409 pages, profusely illustrated in black and white and color. Square 4to, cloth, fine in dust jacket. $250.00
Koczogh, Akos. Modern Hungarian Metalwork. Budapest, Corvina, (1964). 31 pages plus 55 illustrations, some color. 12mo, cloth, very good in dust jacket. $50.00
Post-war Hungarian jewelry and metalwork by Janos Percz, Jozsef Engelsz, Jozsef Nagy, Jozsef Peri and other prominent designers.
Kugel, J. Joyaux Renaissance, Une Splendeur Retrouvee. Paris, Kugel, 2000. Catalogue by Alexis Kugel in collaboration with Rudolf Distelberger & Michele Bimbenet-Privat. An unpaginated catalogue of 151 items, fully described and illustrated in color, plus an extensive section of the plaster jewelry molds from the atelier of Alfred Andre, with 41 black and white photographic plates and descriptions; bibliography. 4to, cloth, fine in dust jacket. $150.00
A magnificent collection of Renaissance jewelry for sale by Galerie Kugel.
Lace: Lescure Collection. Fonds de Bonnets du XIXe Siecle: Collection A. Lescure. Paris, Ernst, n.d. (1926). Title page, one page introduction by C. Estrade plus 54 tipped-in photographic plates. Complete. [Printed at head of each plate is "Fonds de Bonnets des XVIIIe et XIXe Siecles]. Folio, loose, as issued, in board portfolio with cloth spine and tie, printed label on front cover, very good. Scarce. Marquet de Vasselot & Weigert, page 278. $200.00
Alfred Lescure (1862-1913) owned one of the finest collections of lace ever assembled. This rather scarce publication is devoted to the lace decoration of bonnets from examples in his important collection.
Landman, Neil H., et al. Pearls: A Natural History. New York, published in association with the American Museum of Natural History and The Field Museum, 2001. 232 pages, 194 color plates. Cloth, dust jacket. $49.50

Le Bijou; Revue Artistique & Industrielle de la Bijouterie Joaillerie Orfevrerie. Paris, J. Rothschild, editeur. Years 1 (1874) & 2 (1875). 1874 with 35 of 36 plates (lacking plate 2); 1875 with 24 plates (complete). The plates are brilliant chromolithographs of jewelry designs of the period. Folio, each year housed in a paper folder with the original front wrapper/label on the front; the year number was added at a later time. Chipped and slightly faded wrappers, but the plates are all in fine condition. Rare. Each: $2,500
Le Bijou was published to offer jewelry designers with ideas. It ran from 1874 until either 1890 or 1914, according to two different sources. However, we do know of volumes until at least 1909. All of the plates were specifically commissioned for the magazine and adapted by commercial jewelers. It is known that for a period of about one year around 1883 Lalique sold two watercolors a month to Le Bijou (see Henri Vever, French Jewelry in the 19th Century, Vol. III, the Third Republic, trans. Brenda Forman). Because of the beauty of each of the plates, complete volumes are difficult to find. However, we have had several different years of this periodical and it seems that all but the first year contained 24 plates; the first year having 36 and our copy missing just one of those 36 plates.
Leather: Gabrielli, Nazareno. The Art of Leather. Tolentino, Privately Printed by Nazareno Gabrielli S.n.c., (1977). 67 pages (in Italian and English); illustrated with 29 color plates and numerous monochrome illustrations; with leather bookmark manufactured and designed by the company inserted. 4to, decorated cloth, fine in slipcase. $125.00
Published by Nazareno Gabrielli S.n.c. to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the firm; private edition, not for sale to the public. Includes information on the handicraft tradition in leather and skin in Italy and a history of Gabrielli and the company. Examples of decorative leatherwork for purses, album covers, upholstery, decorative panels and more are illustrated.

Art Deco Lighting Fixtures

Lighting Fixtures: Ravaud, Lustrerie, Lyon. Verrerie Ferronnerie. Lyon & Paris, (1930). Trade catalogue comprised of a 6-page price list/description of items and 24 phototype plates printed by Maurice Lescuyer, Lyon showing well over 100 examples of ironwork and glass light fixtures and lamps as well as mirror frames, all in very stylish art deco period designs. Loosely inserted is a duplicated one-page price list dated 15 September 1930, printed on yellow paper, headed "Felix Chevallier & Charles Brisse, Paris," and stating that this is a joint catalogue with Ravaud, Lustrerie, offering trade discounts on quantities. 4to, original illustrated wrappers. Backstrip and one corner torn, otherwise in very good condition. Scarce. $250.00
Lighting – Chinese Lamps: Farmer (Edward I.), Chinese Arts and Decorations, New York. Trade Catalogue of Chinese Lamps. New York, n.d. Elaborate chromolithographed cover reads: A lighted lamp is the most conspicuous object in a room, It should be a thing of beauty in complete harmony with its surroundings. The one-page introduction assures the customer that it is correct to use a Chinese lamp and shade in an English, French, Italian or Colonial home. With eight pages of chromolithographed illustrations of Chinese lamps for sale by Farmer. Most lamps ar Chinese porcelain bases with shades of Old Chinese embroidered silk or brocade. 9¾ x 7½ inches. Wrappers. Fine. Unusual and exquisite. $125.00
Masquerade and Carnival Costumes: Butterick Publishing Co., London and New York. Masquerade and Carnival: Their Customs and Costumes. Trade catalogue. London and New York, 1892. Revised and enlarged edition. 176 pages, numerous woodcut engraved illustrations of examples of costumes, with full descriptions of the patterns. 4to, wrappers, covers torn in parts, but still overall a good copy. Scarce. $125.00
Masriera: Velez, Pilar. Masriera Jewellery: 200 Years of History. Barcelona, 1999. 184 pages, profusely illustrated in color and black and white. Hardbound. $85.00
A study of the Masriera family, Spanish jewelers since 1838, showing the jewelry they produced during the entire course of their existence.
McDonald, Lucile Saunders. Jewels and Gems. Decorations by Vera Bock. New York, Crowell, 1940. First edition. 288 pages, index; black, green and white illustrations throughout and with four color plates of stones from the Marcus Collection. 8vo, original gilt decorated black cloth, bookplate and former owner's signature on endpaper, very good in torn (but protected) illustrated dust jacket. Sinkankas 4315. $50.00
Jewels and the stories behind them. Sinkankas notes, "A series of charming anecdotes of adventure and romance involving gemstones but sprinkled with clusters of factual data.... "
Menzhausen, Joachim. The Green Vaults. Leipzig, 1970. Translation from the German. $100.00
Metalwork: General Bronze Corporation, Long Island City, New York. General Bronze Corporation, Distinctive Productions in All Metals: Windows, Doors, Entrances, Grilles, Railings, Check Desks, Tablets, Statuary in Aluminum, Bronze, Nickel, Iron. Long Island City, 1931. Portfolio containing numbers 7-9 (February - April 1931) of their brochures, each four pages, full of black and white photographic illustrations; plus 16 plates, printed on rectos only, of examples of their works; plus a 12-page brochure of a "List of Major Operations... for which the Architectural Metal Work was Completed or is Being Produced by the General Bronze Corporation... July, 1930" and stated that these operations are dated 1928 and 1929. 4to, original gilt and black decorated paper portfolio. Top sunned, else very good and contents fine. Scarce. $185.00
Among the examples shown are aluminum in the L.P. Hollander Co. Building, New York City (Architects Shreve, Lamb & Harmon); ornamental nickel-silver in the Bonwit Teller Building, New York City (Architect Ely Jacques Kahn); Northwestern National Bank Building, Minneapolis (Architects Graham, Anderson, Probst & White); 1616 Walnut Street, Philadelphia (Architects Tilden, Register & Pepper); bronze entrance Midland Bank, Cleveland, Ohio; Irving Trust Co., No. 1 Wall Street, New York and more.
Mosaic Flooring Tiles: National Mosaic Flooring Company, Mobile, Alabama. Mosaic Floors (cover title}: Catalogue Artistic Flooring Tiles. Mobile, n.d. (ca. 1890s-1900). (6) pages plus 61 color plates of mosaic flooring tile designs. 8½ x 6 inches, original printed and decorative wrappers. Spine torn and taped with pieces missing, other corners chipped. Held together by fasteners. Internally fine. Scarce. $375.00
Unusual trade catalogue of mosaic flooring tiles as it is American and those of the period most often seen are European or South American. This company, at the time, were the sole manufacturers of Adamantile in the United States and it is the Adamantile samples that are presented in this catalogue.

National Mosaic Flooring Company

Munson-Williams-Proctor Arts Institute, Utica, NY. Jewels of Time: Watches from the Munson-Williams-Proctor Arts Intitute. Catalogue of the exhibition April 28 – October 7, 2001. 116 pages, with full descriptions for each watch by Janet Zapata; color and black and white illustrations. Paperbound. $39.95

The New Lady's Magazine; Or, Polite, Entertaining, and Fashionable Companion for the Fair Sex: A Work Entirely Devoted to Their Use and Amusement... Volume III, no. 30 (May, 1788). London, Printed, by Royal Authority, for Alex. Hogg... under the immediate inspection of The Rev. Mr. Charles Stanhope... , 1788. Pages 226-280, complete issue for May, 1788; with an engraved plate of the Double Marriage by Grigion, 3 pages of music, and a lovely engraved fashion plate of "an elegant French dress" (which is fully described in the text). 8vo, disbound, with remnants of black paper on spine. Some pages very closely cropped at outer margin, with some loss of text, but very clean and in very good condition. The fashion plate in perfect condition. Scarce. Not in the standard costume bibliographies. $50.00
The title page calls for another plate, a pattern for a waistcoat, but it is missing from this copy; sold primarily for the 18th century fashion plate.
Nissenson, Marilyn & Susan Jonas. Snake Charm. New York, 1995. Hardbound, dust jacket. $50.00

Wigs

Nicolai, Friedrich. Uber den Gebrauch der Falschen Haare und Perrucken in alten und neuern Zeit. Berlin and Stettin, 1801. First edition. Copper-engraved frontispiece showing two illustrations, xi, 179 pages plus 16 copper engraved plates illustrating 64 examples of hair and wigs. 8vo, contemporary binding of marbled boards with cloth spine. Considerable waterstaining and browning, but legible with plates clearly visible. Rare. Hiler, page 656. Colas 2199. Lipperheide 1687. Cox, page xix. $175.00
On false hair and wigs; not a great copy, but the original edition of this important work on the subject.
Parasols: Neyrat Freres & Peyronie, Chalon-sur-Saone. Parasols. Chalon-sur-Saone, n.d. (ca. 1920s). An 8-page trade catalogue of outdoor sunshade umbrellas with 12 color plates of umbrellas, each with name, dimensions and price, one color plate of the various fabric styles, and one tipped-in 9 x 2 inch fabric swatch. Additional price list for replacements and repairs affixed inside front cover. Oblong 8vo, printed wrappers with cord tie, very good condition. Scarce. $375.00

Parasols

Parsons (Thos.) & Sons, London. A Few Suggestions for Ornamental Decoration. A Collection of Designs & Colour Schemes for Painters' and Decorators' Work. Compiled by F. Scott Mitchell. London, Thos. Parsons & Sons, Manufacturers of Varnishes, Japans, Enamels and Fine Colours, 1908. First edition. 130 pages, profusely illustrated (many color) and including four plates displaying tipped-on examples of colors (actual paint chips). 8vo, original gilt decorated green cloth, one signature loosening, else very good. $225.00
A promotional publication for the firm of Thos. Parsons & Sons with a wealth of examples of ornamental designs of a variety of periods, including contemporary styles, both art nouveau and arts and crafts, all using, of course, parsons' paints and varnishes. The four plates of actual paint samples are those offered for sale by Parsons, their flat paints and enamels. An appealing array of designs in an interesting format.

Haberdashery and Hosiery

Perkins, E.E. A Treatise on Haberdashery and Hosiery; Including the Manchester, Scotch, silk, linen, and woollen departments, foreign and domestic.... London, Thomas Tegg, 1845. xi, 240 pages. 12mo, original blind embossed cloth, slightly rubbed, still very good. Rare. Not in Colas or Hiler. NUC cites many editions, but not many copies located. $375.00
This popular work was originally published around 1833 and went through at least nine editions through 1860. It contains valuable information on haberdashery, cotton handkerchiefs, feathers, parasols, hosiery, lace, linen drapery, list of colors, printing of cottons, bleaching, and much more.
Pforzheim. Schmuckmuseum. Art Deco Schmuck und Bucher aus Frankreich. Exhibition catalogue: 16 May – 13 July 1975. Edited by Fritz Falk. 61 items described and illustrated (a few in color), with biographies of designers. Paperbound. $60.00
French Art Deco jewelry and bookbindings, the collections of Laurence and Barlach Heuer and Felix Marcilhac. Exhibited also at the Villa Stuck, Munich and Museum fur Kunst und Gewerbe, Hamburg, 1975-1976. Jewelers include Jean Despres, Jean Dunand, Georges Fouquet, Jean Fouquet, Gustave Miklos, Gerard Sandoz and Raymond Templier.
Pressmar, Emma. Ringe Reden: Die Sammlung Emma Pressmar im Ulmer Museum. Text in German. Ulm, 1991. Hardbound. $125.00
Showing and describing 254 rings in the collection of Emma Pressmar.
Proddow, Penny & Debra Healy. American Jewelry: Glamour and Tradition. New York, 1987. Cloth, dust jacket. $200.00
Rachlis: Osborn, Max (introduction). Michael Rachlis Raume. Neue Werkkunst. Berlin, Friedrich Ernst Hubsch, (1929). (8) pages, 34 black and white plates of interiors designed by Rachlis in 1929, (38) pages of ads. 4to, gilt printed boards. Backstrip torn at ends, board edges slightly worn, overall very good. $120.00
Period German interior design and furnishings.
Rhode Island School of Design, Art Museum, Providence. Lucy T. Aldrich Collection: Japanese No Drama Costumes and Priest Robes. Exhibition catalogue: April 6 - May 10, 1937. 16 pages plus 22 black and white plates; describes 86 pieces from this major collection. 8vo, original wrappers, fine. $25.00

Jugendstil Textile Designs

Rochga, R & P. Haustein. Etoffes Modernes. Paris, D'Hostingue & Blum, n.d. (1901). Title page plus 24 color plates, loose as issued. Folio portfolio, very good. Scarce. $650.00
A collection of plates originally published in German in 1901 as "Form und Farbe im Flachenschmuck," this work contains stunning examples of Jugendstil/ Wiener Werkstatte-style designs intended as textile fabric design ideas.

Designs Taken From Ancient Pottery

Sawada, Seiichiro (compiler). Sekai Bunyo Shu [Potters of the Ancient World]. Kyoto, 1915. Unpaginated; descriptions of illustrations, in Japanese, on first two pages plus 30 double-leaved hand colored woodblock printed plates of designs taken from ancient pottery: Greek, Roman and Egyptian designs. 8vo, bound in the traditional Japanese leporello style with illustrated boards (now rubbed); inner hinges weak and repaired with non-acidic tape, still overall and internally very good. Author's name imprinted in English on rear cover. Scarce. $285.00
An interesting presentation of designs taken from ancient pottery, beautiful and useful now for a variety of art forms.
Schopp, Alexander (editor). Neuer Flachenschmuck. Volumes 1-2. Plauen, Christian Stoll, n.d. (ca. 1921-1922). Volume 1 complete with title page and 27 monochrome phototype plates; Volume 2 complete with title page and 21 monochrome phototype plates. Small 4to, plates loose in original printed board portfolios with cloth backstrips and ties. Backstrip on Volume 1 missing, wear to bindings, but internally fine. $450.00
Ornamental suggestions for designers and painters for use in designing wallpaper, upholstery fabric, textiles, carpets, bands and borders. The German contribution to the design ideas of the Art Deco and Moderne periods. Each plate presents a number of motifs.

Schopp

Segall, Berta. Katalog der Goldschmieder Arbeiten. Athens, Benaki Museum, Druckerei "Pyrbos," 1938. Catalogue of 220 pages plus 70 plates (numbered 1-69 plus 16a) loose in cloth portfolio, as issued. Very good. Listed in the bibliography of Williams, Greek Gold, page 255. Not in Sinkankas. $1,650.00

18th Century Furniture Pattern Book

Shearer, Thomas. [Designs for Household Furniture]. [London], (1788). Volume containing plates 2-29, as issued, all dated 1788. 4to, bound in a 19th century half morocco on marbled boards binding. Slightly rubbed, fine. Rare. Ward-Jackson, English Furniture Designs of the 18th Century, page 63. $3,500.00
Thomas Shearer was a cabinet-maker whose work, along with Hepplewhite, was responsible for most of the furniture designs in The Cabinet-Makers' London Book of Prices... published in 1788. Ward-Jackson notes that a second edition of this work was issued in 1793 containing 29 plates, of which 17 are by Shearer, 6 by Hepplewhite, 3 by W. Casement and 3 unsigned. This copy is the same with the exception of only 16 plates by Shearer, but Ward-Jackson continues that "Shearer's designs were published separately in 1788 under the title Designs for Household Furniture, but though there is a volume of the designs bound separately in the Museum Library (V & A), it has no title page and there appears to be no record of a copy with one." Presumably the first plate/title page was a design by Shearer, but no record of it has been found, making this copy the same as the one in the V & A and suggesting that it was issued exactly as we have here. The work is a collection of pattern designs for furniture (sideboards, secretaries, chests, dressing tables and more) and including many by Shearer whose designs are thought to have been "a little more advanced in style and occupies a place midway between Hepplewhite and Sheraton" according to Ward-Jackson. Ward-Jackson also notes that the sideboard shown on Plate 6, the same in the London Book of Prices is the earliest published design for a sideboard with pedestals all in one piece.

Shearer

Silver: Gorham Mfg. Co., New York. The Birthday Spoon. Trade catalogue. New York, n.d.. (32) page brochure showing one Gorham silver spoon per month, with appropriate seasonal poems and sayings and a discussion of the flower decorating the particular spoon. Oblong 12mo, decorative green wrappers bound with tie, cover very slightly marked and scratched, very good. Scarce. $55.00

Art Deco Textile Designs

Sorokine, Nicolas. Tissus par Nicolas Sorokine. [First series: Studio D'Arts Decoratifs]. Paris, Guerinet, n.d. (1920s). Title page/list of plates plus 16 plates, 12 of which are pochoir colored plates, all displaying a number of designs intended for the use of colorists and textile designers; flowers, birds and geometric patterns of the period are represented. Folio board portfolio with tie, very good. $650.00
Vibrant art deco textile designs.
Sotheby's, New York. Important Jewels. December 8 & 9, 1997. New York, 1997. Auction catalogue of 634 lots, profusely illustrated in color, biographies. Prices realized stapled inside front cover. Paperbound. $30.00
With jewelry by Belperron, Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Angela Cummings, Dunay, Lalaounis, Jean Mahie, Ostier, Tiffany, Van Cleef, David Webb, Raymond Yard and others.
Streeter & Co., Ltd., 18 New Bond Street, London. Trade catalogue: Gems. Edwin W. Streeter, London. The 101st Streeter & Co. catalogue of jewelry, (1898). 61, (3) pages, almost totally illustrated in chromolithograph in color and gold. Small 8vo, gilt imprinted red cloth, good. Scarce. $475.00
According to Patrick Streeter in Streeter of Bond Street, the "standard of printing in the 101st & 102nd editions of the catalogue was spectacular. The gold reproductions appeared as alluring as the real objects." Streeter notes the date of the 101st catalogue, the first using color and printed using real gold, as 1898. A stunning trade catalogue of Streeter's jewelry and watches, with essays on individual gemstones.
Tartans: Rentons, Ltd, Edinburgh. The Scottish Tartans, With the Badges, Arms, Slogans, etc. of the Clans. Edinburgh, Rentons Ltd., n.d. (ca. 1920). 120 pages, including ads for Rentons, Tartan specialists, silk mercers, general drapers & house furnishers, historical introduction to the tartan, an alphabetical list of family names, showing the tartans they are entitled to wear, and 96 pages of clans, one per page, each with description of the family history, the tartan, the arms, the badge and an illustration of a man wearing the tartan, against a background of a variety of landscape scenes, many with sporting motifs, all in color. The illustrations are copyright W. & A.K. Johnston, Ltd., Edinburgh. 6¼ x 4¼ inches oblong, black imprinted and decorated red cloth. Spine ends and corners slightly worn, else very good. Scarce. $125.00
Taylor, E.J. Colour-Sense Training & Colour Using. Philadelphia, David McKay Company, n.d. (1927). 88 pages, 17 plates, 16 of which are in color. Small 8vo (4¼ x 6½ inches), original cloth, printed dust jacket. Some minor foxing, else very good. Birren #609. $85.00
"A concise and illuminating resume of the scientific and aesthetic facts about colour, correcting common errors in regard to the nature of pigments, and showing how the universal enjoyment of colour can be trained and developed. The author deals further with gradation, harmony, contrast, tone and hue, and outlines correct principles for the use of colour for all purposes" [From the dust jacket cover]. Originally published in London and Glasgow by Blackie & Co. Yale Library Catalogue cites approximate date as first published in 1908 and this American edition published in 1927.
Tile: F. Lauzun & Cie, Bourg-Saint-Andreol (Ardeche). Album de la Manufacture Generale de Carreaux Lithoides, Mosaiques, Granits & Marbres Artificiels, Fabriques par Lauzun & Cie. Bourg-Saint-Andreol (Ardeche), January 1892. 12 pages plus 20 plates. Presented with Album de l'Atelier Special de Mosaiques Francaises en Marbre naturel, F. Lauzun & Cie... 4 pages and 4 plates AND Album de l'Atelier Special de Balustrades en Pierres du Midi... Lauzun & Cie... 4 pages and 8 plates. A total of 32 plates of tiles, in a variety of patterns, printed in brown, tan, red and black. Priced. 12mo, original brown, tan, red and black illustrated and decorative wrappers. Sewing weak, backstrip reinforced with clear tape, probably lacking rear wrapper (else last plate acting as rear wrapper). Title page partially adhering to inside cover near spine, with short tear near top. Still, an overall very good copy of a scarce trade catalogue. $275.00
Tile: Robertson Art Tile Company, Trenton, New Jersey. Robertson Incised Planatile.Trenton, May, 1930. 16 page trade catalogue, 11 of which contain illustrated examples of the tiles, four of which are in color. 4to, illustrated wrappers, slightly dusty and head of spine split, else very good. Printed in an edition of 5,000 copies. Scarce. $75.00
Robertson's innovation in building products, the Planatile, was developed in 1929. These art tiles were made to produce color and tonal quality with incised ornamentation. The April 15, 1931 16-page price list is included.
Tile: Societe des Tuileries & Briqueteries de Marseille... Arnaud Etienne & Cie.... Faience Architecturale, Ceramique Industrielle et Artistique. Marseille, n.d. (ca. 1880s). A trade catalogue comprised of an illustrated cover, price list and 17 pages containing 36 tipped-in chromolithographed examples of ceramic tiles. Oblong 8vo, original wrappers, rear wrapper torn, else very good. Scarce. $475.00
Tile: Tile Illustrated. Volume One, no. 3. New York, Associated Tile Manufacturers, 1931. (2) pages, plates 37-54 (complete), each plate a full-page photographic illustration, with caption on verso of preceding plate. 4to, wrappers, very good. $60.00
"This publication, and those issues which will follow, are being sent to architects and designers for two purposes. Its primary intention is to familiarize every interested person with current tile design and usage, and also to serve as a permanent record of tiled achievements. The publishers are manufacturers of floor and wall tile who have won the confidence of the construction industry... some examples of the decorative quality and effectiveness of highly fired clay tiles will be illustrated." Some examples illustrated are several different rooms in the Fisher Building, Detroit, built in 1928, designed by Albert Kahn; bathrooms and hallways in several private residences; and the lobby of the Court Theatre in Newark, New Jersey.

Edward Everett Hale's Copy

Tyrwhitt, Rev. R[ichard] St. John (1827-1895). A Handbook of Pictorial Art... With a Chapter on Perspective by A. MacDonald. Clarendon Press Series. Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1868. First edition. xi, list of illustrations, 480 pages; a total of 22 illustrations: mounted chromolithograph frontispiece, 3 chromolithograph plates, 4 original photographs (2 mounted album photographs and 2 salted paper prints of human anatomy) and black and white illustrations, some full-page, some in the text, by Tyrwhitt himself and by Miss Alice Owens. 8vo, half leather on marbled boards with matching endpapers, all edges marbled. Binding rubbed; internally fine. $300.00
Edward Everett Hale's copy, presented to him and inscribed, "Edward E. Hale. With the love of his Class. April 3, 1869." Hale was the American author and Unitarian minister as well as influential reformer, being a strong advocate of the anti slavery movement. WITH: Autograph Letter Signed in full by Tyrwhitt, 3 pages on one folded sheet, dated Oxford, 20 February 1875; to a woman and discussing the second edition of the Sketching Club being published; beginning to write a novel; Alice Owen's book on Christian Art, which he says is "a more generally useful book than mine on Primitive Art, and better written [Owens was a student of Tyrwhitt's and her illustrations are included in this book];" and mentioning Ruskin; slightly browned at edges and slightly chipped along bottom. ADDITIONALLY: Included as well is an envelope with typewritten address to Miss A.W. Clark of Boston, stamped in the return address "Lend a Hand Society." We are unable to determine if Miss Clark is the recipient of Rev. Tyrwhitt's letter. ALSO INCLUDED: Two cut letterheads of Edward Everett Hale, with browned and chipped ends, cut just below the name and address. Rev. Tyrwhitt was a student at Christ Church, Oxford and then a Tutor (from 1852). He later became Vicar of the University Church (1858). He exhibited at the Royal Academy and according to the National Portrait Gallery Online information, he was a friend of Ruskin. The National Portrait Gallery Online Catalogue shows a photograph of Tyrwhitt by Lewis Carroll, dated 1857. The book itself is, according to Tyrwhitt's own words, a manual intended to be both practical and theoretic. In it he gives credit to Ruskin and uses his statements and ideas. Tyrwhitt discusses technique in watercolor painting, landscapes, perspective, figure drawing, color, texture and the use of photography as a means for studying nature.
Untracht, Oppi. Saara Hopea-Untracht: Life and Work. Helsinka, 1988. Second edition. English/Finnish text. 31 pages, 584 black and white and 82 color illustrations. Boards. $115.00
Catalogue raisonne of Saara Hopea Untracht (1926-1984), the modernist master, designer of glass, jewelry and furniture.
Upholstery: Simmons. Simmons Resale Studio Couches and Resale Lounges With Newest Fabrics. Spring 1941. N.p., Simmons, 1941. A 32-page trade catalogue of Simmons Beautyrest couches and the available upholstery fabrics: in all, 29 couches and lounges are illustrated in black and white and a total of 141 fabric swatches are presented (all are present). Folio, original printed wrappers with taped backstrip over staples, as issued. Covers slightly stained and with very minor extremity chipping; some minor internal adhesive stains, but generally in very good condition. Scarce. $185.00
Van Cleef & Arpels: Raulet, Sylvie. Van Cleef & Arpels. Paris, (1986). Cloth, dust jacket. French edition. $300.00

Vever in English

Vever, Henri. Henri Vever: French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century. Translation of La Bijouterie Francaise au XIXe Siecle (1800-1900) by Katherine Purcell. New York, 2001. 1152 pages, over 1400 illustrations, with 136 color photos of jewels now in the Musee des Arts Decortifs, Paris, new to this edition. Thick 4to, hardbound in dust jacket. Slipcase. $300.00
Volger, Gisela, et al (editors). Pracht und Geheimnis: Kleidung und Schmuck aus Palastina und Jordanien. Cologne & Berlin, 1991. Second edition. Catalogue of an exhibition at the Haus der Kulturen der Welt, Berlin (originally in 1987 at the Rautenstrauch- Joest- Museums der Stadt, Cologne). German text. 432 pages, 502 black and white and 152 color illustrations. Boards. $39.50 Splendor and Mystery: Clothing and Jewelry from Palestine and Jordan. Catalogue of the collection of Widad Kawar.
Wagner de Kertesz, M. Historia Universal de la Joyas a Traves del Arte y la Cultura. Buenos Aires, Centurion, (1947). First edition. 671 pages, 1200 illustrations, including 30 tipped-in color plates. 4to, cloth, very good in dust jacket. Series: Coleccion Arte. Scarce. Not in Sinkankas. $350.00
A history of jewelry, ancient to modern, with a large section on pre-columbian and ethnic Mexican, African and Pacific Islands.

Schumacher Foil Wallcoverings

Wallcoverings: Schumacher. Schumacher Hand Printed Foils. N.p. (New York), n.d. (ca. 1964). Trade catalogue of Schumacher foil wallcoverings, "a complete departure from conventional metallic wallpapers." This copy is comprised of the one page text and 36 sample wallcoverings. Inside the front cover is the "Price List: 75th Anniversary Collection," suggesting the date as 1964 as Schumacher began in 1889. 58 patterns are listed and presumably there should be 58 samples in this volume. In this copy the samples are loose, as obviously many have been taken out. However, a wonderful sampling of period designs in metallic foil wallcoverings. Oblong 8vo, decoratively printed cloth, samples loose (and one with small piece cut), but overall very good. $65.00
Wallpaper: Boucher, Christian. Specimens de Decorations Interieures avec Quelques-unes de Nos Dernieres Creations en papiers-Peints, 1925-1926. Paris, Christian Boucher, Photograveur, 1925. 24 full color examples, heightened in gold and silver, of art deco interiors, showing contemporary wallpaper designs, on 19 plates, most full-page, several half-page; included are numbers 8-31, probably the company's current line for the 1925-1926 season. Each example with a caption noting the name, size and stock number of the item. The notation of Christian Boucher, Photograveur suggests Boucher as having printed the catalogue, but whether or not this is the wallpaper company is questionable. There is no other information as to company name, but these designs are examples of the height of art deco interior design, with wall coverings and furniture superbly designed and illustrated in vibrant colors. Oblong 4to, illustrated wrappers, heightened in gold, original tie. Backstrip partly torn, else very good. Scarce. $250.00

Original Drawings of Watches

Watches: DIJ. DIJ: La Montre d'Art. Trade catalogue of watches with title imprinted in gilt on cover. N.p. (probably Geneva or Paris), DIJ, n.d. (ca. 1937-38). A small oblong leatherbound ring binder measuring 7¾ x 5¼ inches, containing eight gray paper leaves with interleaves, each leaf having one or two cut out original hand painted designs for magnificent, elaborate art deco wristwatches. Each design is affixed to the gray sheet which is bordered in blue along two edges and each has a blocked number on the sheet. There are ten designs in all. Laid in at the rear are early duplicates of the watches shown, some with light pencilling, some with punch holes for the ring binder. This is clearly a trade catalogue of original modernist watch designs from a company about which we are unfamiliar and have yet to locate in any appropriate reference source. Backstrip splitting, else very good; drawings fine. Rare, possibly unique. $750.00
Wirkkala: Washington, D.C. Smithsonian Institution. Contemporary Fin-nish Design by Tapio Wirkkala. Exhibition sponsored by The Embassy of Fin-land, 1970-1972. 1970. (28) pages, black and white illustrations. Oblong 8vo, wrappers, very good. $45.00
Examples of the glassware for Iittala and Venini, ceramic and cutlery design for Rosenthal, metal designs for Hopeakeskus Oy, cutlery design for Hackman and jewelry design for Kultakeskus Oy by Tapio Wirkkala, one of Finland's most gifted and versatile designers, born in 1915. Wirkkala was the Art Director of the Academy of Art in Helsinki (1951-1954) and the designer of the Finnish Pavilion at the 1958 Brussels World Exhibition. Of the items illustrated, five are of his jewelry.
[Woods, Caroline H.]. The Diary of a Milliner. By Belle Otis [pseudonym]. New York, Hurd and Houghton, 1867. First edition. viii, 200 pages. Small 8vo, original green cloth, spine gilt. Spine ends and corners worn and frayed, some minor spotting, overall very good. Wright, American Fiction, II. $125.00
Fiction, yet, one woman's personal observations on the social condition for women, on herself, and on her customers; with information on styles of hats the customers purchased. The author also wrote "Woman in Prison" (1869).

With Samples

Yamazaki, Akira. Nippon Hand Weaves in "Kusakizome" Dyes. Handbook of Japanese Weaves in Natural Plant Dyes. Published by Getumeikai, Kakio, Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan, 1960. 58 pages plus four pages in Japanese; with 26 samples of Japanese woven fabrics dyed with natural plant dyes. Descriptions in English and Japanese. 4to, printed on "Getsumei" paper, in double texture, bound in hand-woven Tsumugi cotton in indigo Mansuji check pattern, in box covered in hand-woven fabric in indigo Muji pattern. Fine. Edition limited to 100 numbered copies. Scarce. $450.00

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